Tag Archives: Morocco
100 Days Into My Peace Corps Experience
100 Days In
100 Days Down. 700 to go. The past week has changed everything for me. It started with Spring Camp. That gave me the first experience of interacting with kids in Bhalil. Once camp concluded, I got to work on some of the most important aspects of my time here. First, getting a house of my own. As of yesterday, I have the key to my very own beautiful apartment. I will be spending the week ahead furnishing it and moving in. Secondly, I am filling my schedule with classes. I already have three English Classes scheduled in the week ahead. I am likely to get a couple more over the next couple days. Most of them will be reoccurring. This will be the core of my service. All of my projects will branch out from the kids that I teach.
Starting to be successful is changing a lot. There have also be recent changes back in America. It has all brought me to a strange understanding. I now know what I am doing in Morocco. I now know the full extent of the sacrifice I made by leaving America. The combination is strange. On the up side, my feet are planted firmly in Morocco and my service will benefit from that. On the down side, there is no going back to the way things used to be. I knew Peace Corps would change my life. But what surprises me is how it changed me.
The emotional roller coaster that was 100 days of homestay is over. It made me realize how many emotions can be active at the same time. There was one point when I almost exhausted my vocabulary for emotions and honestly felt all of them simultaneously. It is exhausting. However, considering I was an anxious wreck only six months ago, this is a great change for me.
The other aspect is Love. I have come to realize the true meaning of love here. In all forms. I have never truly understood how much I love my family…because I have never had to miss them this much. It is a great thing to realize. The same happens for friends. I coming to realize who I was close to because they were around…and who is honestly a good friend (and how I can be a better friend). As for romantic love, that is a whole other can of worms.
I am ready for the second 100 days. I know that I do not know what they hold. That is clear. I barely understand what tomorrow holds. But that is part of the beauty of Morocco and Peace Corps. You never know what is going to happen…but is usually turns out for the best.
Like being ushered into a random house and given cake, peanuts, and tea.
Morocco is awesome.
How to Buy Meat in Morocco
Meat hooks at a butcher. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The local butcher has a shop just down the street. His tactics for increasing sales are obvious—and appear to be working. On the outside door to the shop hangs a cow head. Every day, a cow head will be there. It’ll look very much alive except for the vacancy in its eyes and the tongue hanging slightly out of its mouth. This the butcher’s way of telling his customers that this meat is fresh.
The rest of the cow hangs behind the butcher. You walk into his store and ask for a certain number of kilos. The butcher will go to the dead cow and cut off a slab for you—nice and fresh. He’ll weigh it. Once he has the right amount, he’ll grind the meat up for you right there. He puts the slab in the top of the grinder. Out the side comes ground meat. This cow won’t even be 24 hours dead by the time his meat is in your stomach.
But that is nothing compared to the chicken vender. I have only gone once. With my remaining 700 days in Morocco, I have no intention of returning. For one thing, I don’t like chicken very much. For another, I prefer not to see my meal slaughtered. The chicken vender has a simple setup. You walk up to his window and ask for a certain number of kilos. He will walk to the back of his store, where ten chickens are in a pen.
These chickens are always hiding in a corner. They are able to see what happens to the chickens that get “picked.” They push each other to hide in the furthest corner, not wanting to die. The chicken vender picks out a chicken for you and brings it up to the window. He weighs the live chicken right in front of you. If the weight is correct, he puts the chicken on the ground, holds its head upward, and cuts its throat. The chickens in the pen huddle closer together.
After that, the chicken is sent through a defeathering machine. After a few minutes, you have your meat ready. The one night that I witnessed this, we ate chicken. It’s strange to think that the meat you are eating was alive just a couple hours ago—trying not to be the winner of some reaping. But that’s how it works here.
In America, we hide the process of killing. When we go to buy our meals for the day, we see processed meat, not living animals. It makes it easier for us to stomach. As for me, I’m tending towards the side of America. Once I’m on my own and cooking on my own…I can’t see myself buying meat. I don’t know how to be a vegetarian…but I may have to figure it out.
It’s that or learn how to be okay with reaping a chicken every few nights.
The Fishbowl Effect
Sad T-Rex (Photo credit: iJammin)
There’s a pain that comes with Peace Corps service. At least it accompanies the first 100 days of service. I can’t pretend that it won’t also be a part of the next 700 days, but it will be less intense. It’s something that Peace Corps warned us about. When they told us about it, I didn’t understand. How could I? Now I’ve been through it. Now I understand. Now…how do I explain it?
Peace Corps’ description: You are always “on.” In the Peace Corps manual, you will find a list of Core Expectations. I have number five circled: “Recognize that you are responsible 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for your personal conduct and professional performance.” Add that on top of the reality that you are the only American in town, and you’ve got yourself quite the fish bowl.
This hit me hard today. I wanted to do some writing. I needed some inspiration, so I looked through some old pictures. The pictures stabbed me with memories. Beautiful memories of a time that feels so long ago. Whenever I get like this, I like to go for a walk. It clears my head. But I can’t go for a walk. My host family will ask where I am going. I’ll tell them I want to walk. They’ll tell me it’s not safe with all the dogs out at night.
How do you deal with this? My host family has a puppy. I thought I would love it. The thing is, that little dog reminds me of my two dogs—who died within two months of each other right before I left for the Peace Corps. But I can’t be sad. I can sneak into my room—because that comes across as antisocial. And I can’t cry. Having someone ask questions would only complicate the situation.
But…I move into my own apartment in 13 days or so. That’s the small light at the end of the tunnel. It’ll be nice to have a whole apartment rather than a small room. It’ll be great to control my diet. It’ll be nice to not be expected home at a certain hour. Most of all, I can go for walks whenever I want. It’s this beginning part—these first 100 days of service that have worn on me.
I know there’s a part of me that will always be “on.” That part of me will either learn to adjust or sigh a long awaited sigh of relief when I finally hit American soil in 2015. That’s such a strange thought. The idea of being here two years is realistic now. The thought of returning home is so…surreal. All the food. The flat sidewalks. Movie theaters. Strong Internet. Not having trouble understanding someone in a basic conversation.
I feel like I’m in a constant state of over-alertness.
I need a vacation.
The Signs That Guide Us
Amazon Kindle (Photo credit: agirregabiria)
I believe in signs. I’m not entirely sure when this started. The change was gradual. I used to laugh when people talked about a sign guiding them to their purpose. Now, those signs are what guide me. It is this belief in signs that makes me agnostic. I could never be an atheist. The more I live, the more I see that chaos is not in the cards. Although my jump to religion will likely never take place, I take a great comfort in the signs that I decipher from time to time.
Yesterday started off fuzzy. After almost two weeks in Final Site, I felt useless. I was making progress on certain things—like finding a house and integrating. But tangible things were not happening. I do not have a daily routine that gives all humans a sense of purpose. So, when I woke up to a text message from a new friend, I jumped at it. The moment I left the house, someone called my name. After a five minute conversation, I suddenly had a second place to teach youth in my community. The sign was a good one. I was right to get up and do something this morning.
I got in a cab and headed to Sefrou. For more than an hour, we walked on a website. The hope is that this website can be a place where youth submit their written work. But, yesterday, it was something to fill the endless hours in the day. It filled the hole. In return for the help, my new friend helped me find a cord to my Kindle. I don’t think he realizes how grateful I am for this cord. Without the cord, I was down to 3 physical books to read. With the cord, my Kindle opens a world with more than a thousand books. I will be able to read to my heart’s content during my time here because of a single cord.
I also got pooped on by a bird. I’m not sure how to interpret that sign.
By getting an early start to the day, I was ready for anything. I spent the afternoon at my youth center—starting the process to sign up students for my English Classes. I signed up five kids and left the signup sheet on the wall. To be honest, it doesn’t matter how many people sign up. The sheet has two purposes. First, it lets me figure when the best time to hold classes is. Second, it gets students excited about the class. They will talk to their friends and word of mouth will fill up my classes. Most of them will not come regularly…but some will.
That’s all that matters.
Market day in Sefrou, Maroc (Photo credit: See Wah)
Cultural Misunderstandings & Moroccan Integration
English: Extension of Moroccan Arabic (Darija). (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
I need to talk about yesterday. Out of nowhere, yesterday became my biggest step forward with regards to integration. At the same time, I made a mistake that will likely come back to bite me. All in all, the day was busy and worthwhile. I went to sleep unsure of how to interpret everything…but that is happening more and more here in Morocco.
The day started normal. I woke up late. I walked around town. I read at the park. That part of my routine is set. It’s perfect for what I want to accomplish here. I need to integrate, so walking around daily is a must. I meet at least one new person a day. The reading in the park is something that came out of nowhere. After being told that “I’ve never seen a person in Bhalil read in public,” I decided to do it every day.
When I got back, my family whisked me off to lunch at my mother’s parents’ house. I’m starting to get to know everyone in the family. More importantly, my Host Uncle has taken a liking to me. He tries harder to communicate with me than anyone I have met here in Morocco. After lunch, he took me to his barbershop. At first, I thought I was going to be forced to get my hair cut.
Turns out I was wrong. The barbershop is kind of a local hangout. A dozen people came and went throughout my three hours there. I met several friends of the family. We had conversations about language, indoor heating, money, and clean energy. It was fantastic. Later, the English teacher at the local high school dropped by. We had a long conversation and suddenly I have another counterpart in my work here. Those three hours at the barbershop integrated me as much as a week’s worth of walking around town.
I headed back to my family’s house. As we ate, the conversations somehow turned to how long I’m spending in Morocco (two years). That quickly turned into whether or not I would marry while in Morocco. This isn’t the first time a conversation has started about me being single. Back in Bouderham, it was an ongoing joke between the postman and I. So when the topic came up, I gave an overenthusiastic, “No, no, no, no.”
This is the first time the subject came up with my host family. They were confused why I was so adamant. It’s not that I’m adamant against it…it’s more that I can’t see it. Back in America, I really wanted to have a house and a good job and be more like 30 when I started a family. If my ideals play into it—religion, writing, etc..—I just don’t see marriage anywhere in the picture during my two years here.
Problem: How do you translate that into a language you’ve been studying for two months?
I missed my opportunity to explain myself. Instead, my host mother asked me if there was a girl back home. I said no. My mother decided my “no” was a little sheepish and interrupted it as a “YES I DO!” Before I could do anything about it, the conversation flew by me. I was only asked one more question, “Is she still studying at University in America?” Unsure of what else to say, I just said yes.
So my host family things I’m halfway to engaged. This being on the heels of me suddenly feeling single again. I want to set the record straight with my family…but bringing it up would be inappropriate. The best I can do is set the record straight if they bring the subject again. But what am I supposed to say?
Back in America I would explain it eloquently, “We never officially dated, but we were defiantly together. We never officially broke up, but we are definitely not together anymore.” In Darija, I will inevitably sound like a bubbling idiot. I live in a culture where dating is considered inappropriate. I quickly discovered that it’s not as much of a big deal as I was led to believe. Still, it is quite a strange situation.
Every day here is unexpected.
I love that.
But it’s exhausting.
Making a Life-Long Project Better
I’ve been doing the Everyday Project for six and a half years now. I knew joining the Peace Corps would add a unique spice to my project. Two years of projects with weird landscaped and veiled women in the background? I loved the idea. It will make my project stand out. When I started getting used to being here in Morocco, however, I realized there was another advantage to being in the Peace Corps. Time.
There is a lot to do in the Peace Corps. I spend a lot of time hanging out with my Host Family, eating, and teaching kids. But, inevitably, there is a lot of free time. I knew this would happen. As a result, I made a nice long list of personal goals I wanted to accomplish during my 27 months here. Most of them were writing goals. But there were a few random ones. Genealogy was one. Another, however, involved my Everyday Project.
I’ve seen a couple projects that aligned the eyes in their pictures. They are some of my favorite projects. If you can find a way to align the eyes of the pictures, you can go as fast or as slow as you want. For me—without aligned eyes—I dare not go faster than ten pictures per second. Even at that rate, my face bounces around enough that it is slightly disorienting. So I put it on my list: Align the eyes in my Everyday Project.
I knew it was an ambitious project from the get-go. To start, I wasn’t sure how to do it. I tried several different projects over a week in February. Finally, I realized the best way to do it was with the Ruler option in Powerpoint. I did three months that week. Later I realized I was making the pictures too large. I started again. It takes about half an hour to do a month—a little less than a minute per picture. I’ve been doing this for six and half years. That’s about 2,200 pictures. Like I said…it’s an ambitious project.
When I started working, I thought it would be a rather monotonous project. It is, at times. But, more and more, I find that that is not the case. I see my face and realize things. I have a slight tilt to my head. My eyes look better in the sunlight than in the faux light of the indoors. I can see when I had been crying—eyes still red. I can tell when I just got out of the hot tub—hair still wet.
More importantly, I look to the background. This is the part that brings back memeories. I like it when I am not home in the pictures. It’s great to try to figure out where I was…and why? Who was I dating at that point? How long till we break up? Who was I hanging out with? What did we do? These pictures hold my life in their pixels. I’m loving this “monotonous” part of this fantastic project.
Here’s a quick look at what I am doing. I am currently 300 pictures in. If you are looking to start your own project (which I strongest suggest you do) or need any advice on aligning eyes, feel free to contact me. I love spreading this project.
10% Done With Service
logo (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Today marks a 10% completion of my Peace Corps service. 80 days down. 720 to go. As I settle into my community, I am having my fair share of successes and failures. I feel comfortable walking all the streets of my gorgeous mountainside town. Youth that will be in my English classes come up to me all the time to talk in broken sentences (Broken Arabic from me; broken English from them).
I’m enjoying going to the park on a daily basis and reading. On my first full day here, I went to a park and read for an hour. This 20 year old approached me and told me I was the first person he had ever seen read in public in Bhalil. I was kind of in awe of that statement. He said that, when it wasn’t time to study, all the students really cared about was soccer. After walking around town, I believe him. There’s always at least one game going on in some part of the town.
Before he left, he asked me about America. He followed up by saying he was going to get there some day. It’s not the first time I have heard this. There’s this “Path to a Better Life” that most people in developing nations tend to follow. Here in Morocco, step on is to get into University and become fluent in English and a European Language while studying something important—like becoming a doctor. Knowing the language and the study will help them get to their European country of choice. For my stranger in the park, it was Germany. But Germany is not intended to be the final destination. America is always the final destination—even in today’s world.
For my friend in the park, “I will die in Las Vegas, if God Wills It.”
These are the moments that I live for. I’ve already had several. Yesterday, I found a road that looped around the outside of the entire town. After taking a wrong turn, I found myself at a dead end. It was beautiful. The road dead-ended because it reached a cliff that overlooks the entire town and the entire countryside around the town. I stood there for maybe 20 seconds before a man approached me.
His English was perfect and he didn’t let me speak in Arabic. We talked for half an hour. He lived in the States for 18 years during the prime of his life. His life story was incredible. I wanted to keep talking to him all day. His perspective was unlike anything I have ever heard before. At the end of the conversation, he pointed to a building next to this beautiful overlook and told me it was for rent—and almost perfect for my budget. I can’t wait to go back and check it out. His business is right downstairs from the apartment. I would love to be next door to a person who can tell a great story.
Things are going well.
Let’s keep it that way for the next 80 days.
A Feeling I Cannot Shake
Something is off. I’m doing well in my Final Site. This is something else. Not the strangeness of the place, the people, or the food. This has to do with home. I know most people would simply call it homesickness. But that sounds to simple to me. This is more. To be honest…even if I Early Terminated right now and went back “home” to Colorado, I would have this feeling. It’s an intense detachment. I’m seeing all my connections fade. I should have know this was inevitable…but was there even a way to accept it before? I don’t believe so.
I don’t talk with friends back home very often. When i do, I either feel a pang in my stomach or can’t find much to talk about. The same, strange enough, is happening with my family. Our conversations feel shorter. Through no fault of anyone, all of the relationship’s I’ve built up for 23 years are fading. I guess that is what happens when you are an ocean and and continent away. It’s a pailful experience I didn’t notice it until my kinda-relationship back home was put on hold. This was also expected…but that doesn’t make it any easier.
I find myself relying on the support structure that I’ve built over the last ten weeks with other Peace Corps Volunteers. Given, it is a strong support system. I have no fear of going without advice and help. It’s the transition of going from my usual support system to something entirely different that is getting at me. I have these people who I regarded as immovable pillars in my life back home. To know that I can not rely on the pillars in strange…and awkward. I miss my friends. I miss my family. I miss my special someone. I will always love them. 24 months and counting…
A poem I wrote today:
Hiding or Fitting In?
It’s been a while since I’ve updated. The end of Peace Corps training is rather intense. The studying mixes with the goodbye. The goodbyes mix with finding out where you are going to spend the next two years of your life. Anticipation mixes with anxiety. Anxiety mixes with insanity. Because every time I find myself realizing that I’m in Africa…I think to myself, “This is insane.” Whether I’m frustrated or genuinely enjoying myself, being a part of Peace Corps is crazy.
I’ve been in my final site for 36 hours. It’s already been more than I could ever have anticipated. As I walked toward my Host Family’s house, a random man started walking with me. His English was pretty good so we started talking. It took less than a minute before he asked me if I was Muslim. I stumbled. I knew this question was coming. So few people in my training site knew English that I never had to deal with the question. Suddenly I was dealing with it. I said no, which brought up the inevitable follow-up question: “Are you Christian.” Unsure of how to respond, I said, “Yes. In America.”
It was my first act of hiding myself. Many of my encounters involves simply not talking about certain aspects of myself that wouldn’t be culturally appropriate—like a dating life. But this is different. I will get this question a lot. I have been advised by Peace Corps Volunteers to simple state that I am Christian. Although I’ve been Agnostic all my life, now I have to hide it in a way that I’ve never had to in America. Sure, it wasn’t always something openly accepted in America….but I never felt like I had to hide it. Now I’m not entirely sure.
After by encounter with the stranger, I stopped at a park and tried to figure out the map I’d been given. A few minutes later, my nine year old host brother found me and brought me back to my house. It’s quite a nice house. The older brother speaks English. The mother is an amazing cook. The father is a Headmaster at a private primary school. All this in a beautiful mountainside town.
I spent yesterday exploring Bhalil. I found the place that I’ll be teaching English. I explored random road and forced myself to get lost. In a town of 15,000 or so, I feel the need to explore every side road—it shouldn’t be too hard. The town is amazing and I’ve already had plenty of random coversations with strangers—in broken English and broken Moroccan Arabic.
Conversation Recap:
Stranger: What is your name.
Me: My name is Rachid. What is your name?
Stranger: My name is yours.
Me: Your name is Rachid?
Stranger: No. My name is Isyers.
Me: Oooooo
I’ve been in country for 75 days. I’m already starting to feel comfortable in my own skin here. A lot has changed on the homefront. I’m having a hard time staying in contact with my friends. Relationships are changing with those I felt closest too. It’s all a very complicated process. I don’t that will change. With time, however, I’ll feel like 800 days is doable. Right now, 2015 feels like a long way off. Which could be a good thing or a bad thing. I’m doing my best to turn it into a good thing.
Richard T. Reilly 